Just twenty minutes from San Jose’s Juan Santamaria International Airport, and thirty from the capital city, San Jose, is a beautiful and fairly extensive valley, surrounded by mountain ranges and characterized by the conical form of its hills. But perhaps Atenas’ greatest fame comes from National Geographic’s claim that it has the best climate in the world.

Atenas’ celebrated climate is due to its location. The town is 700 meters above sea level, and surrounded by mountains that reach upwards another 530 meters, making for temperate and pleasant weather. Temperatures regulated by warm winds from the San Ramon region and that enter through the depressions caused by the Montes del Aguacate or Avocado Hills, and the influence of the dry Western Zone, benefits the region. It’s little wonder that the largest population of expats outside of Escazu chose to settle here.

Since 2005, the Fiesta de Clima or the Climate Festival, has been celebrated in Atenas at the end of April with traditional activities such as an ox-cart parade – which recalls the town’s past when it was part of the route to transport coffee to port to ship overseas. Independence Day on September 15th is celebrated nationwide but with great enthusiasm with uniformed marching bands, parades, and bystanders dressed in national dress for visitors wishing to experience an authentic Costa Rican holiday.

I was lucky enough to grow up in the Montes del Aguacate and went to high school in Atenas, so the small town is close to my heart. It hasn’t changed much in the last decades, although there are more commercial buildings and expat retirees’ residences on the hillsides, Atenas remains a close-knit agricultural community with a population of around 8,000. One of the best characteristics of Atenas is its warm, honest and friendly people – just like it’s weather.

Atenas was declared a county of Alajuela Province on August 7th, 1868, bordering the counties of Naranjo, Palmares, Grecia and San Ramon to the north and the counties of the San Jose counties of Mora and Turrubares to the south, Grecia and Alajuela to the east and San Mateo and Orotina to the west.

The area is known as one of the best coffee producers in the country, thanks to the privileged geography of its mountainous zones, and in its farmers’ markets, local organic farm produce is sold in addition to its coffee. Friendly vendors share the essence of Atenas hospitality while selling fruit, vegetables, bread, flowers, plants, and dairy and meat products to satisfied customers.

The town is ideally located to provide views over beautiful landscapes across to the Central Valley and down to the Pacific Ocean, where in summer months, the sunsets fill the sky with orange as night falls. La Zopilota or the Vulture viewing point offers spectacular views across the San Ramon, Palmares and the Central Valley, and Vistas Atenas or Atenas Views has more Central Valley panoramas to delight the observer. Locals enjoy the ancient pastime of people watching from benches in the park, which is a place to relax and greet passers-by.

Local gossip insists that MacGyver actor, Richard Dean Anderson, has a home in the area.

 

Getting there:

From our Poas office in Alajuela, take the Pan-American Highway east for 14 kms, then exit right for the Manolos overpass. Take the first left and drive 14kms further to enter Atenas.

From Poas San Jose Airport Office to Atenas: Approximately 30 minutes + traffic. Check out the routes here -> From Poas (SJO) to Atenas.

 

Recommended Car Category:

Sedans are a common sight on the well-maintained and smoothly paved city streets and highways of the Central Valley. Rental rates for a sedan are cheaper than renting an SUV. Sightseeing, parking and fuel economy will be less stressful in a sedan when driving around the San Jose area.

If your vacation plans include day trips to the beach, mountains or anywhere else off urban roads, an intermediate SUV should be considered for the higher road clearance.

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Where to eat:

Enjoy a coffee or cup of agua dulce, the warm drink made from unrefined sugar, at La Casita del Café at Estanquillos on the old Atenas road while watching the sun go down. It is a great spot to sample some typical Costa Rican food, such as gallo pinto, casado, tamales, and potato or papaya picadillo while overlooking the green mountains of San Mateo sweeping down to the ocean. I’d recommend El Balcon Café for its attractive balcony seating and great chicken sandwiches accompanied by a Moccachino, and Pizzeria La Finca for Italian flavour. Don’t miss the Salvadoran speciality, pupusas or rice flour tortillas, served at Las Fiestas de las Pupusas with a variety of fillings from cheese to chicken.

Price: Reasonable.

 

Where to stay:

Villa Tamarindo de Atenas is my recommended place to stay in Atenas. Accommodating six, this vacation rental home is nestled by lush, tropical gardens with stunning views overlooking both the Rio Grande and Central Valleys; the Poas, Barva and Irazu volcanoes provide backdrops as the morning sun illuminates the tropical hideaway. Hosts Joe and Nancy designed their Balinese-style home to optimize outdoor space with three separate pavilions, surrounding a large swimming pool, yet providing privacy and tranquility.

Price: Modest for Six People.

 

Soundtrack:

Mellow into the Atenas pace of life with the laid-back beats and indie vocals of Heredia’s The Aimers on their first EP entitled, Memories of Mandattan.